Thursday, November 29, 2007

There's a Dance in the Old Dame Yet: Lillian & "Beza"

Before I tell this story, I want to tell you about the 2 types of young, buff men you see walking the Camino. Most of them would make their mothers proud: they are polite, almost to a fault, and always willing to help out pilgrims who need it or are struggling. I even saw one offer to carry the pack of a Polish woman who had sprained her ankle (in addition to his own pack!). I like these guys.

The other type of young, buff men I don't much care for. They walk the Camino with the attitude that if you aren't young, buff, pretty, carrying 35 lbs & walking 50km/day, you aren't worth the breath it takes to say "Buen Camino." They walk as though they own the path & if you are in their way, they brush right by you & roll their eyes at the thought that someone so old, so unattractive (to them), so out of shape, would dare walk "their" Camino. This is "Buff Guy Type 2" or "BGT2."

With this information in mind, here is my story of Lillian & "Beza."

I never got a chance to get a picture of these two women. I saw them first in Azofra, and then many times the next day on our walk to Santo Domingo. I first came across them resting next to a huge hay stack. They said it was quite comfortable, but I wasn't so sure that I could make it back up if I sat on the ground with them. Of course, they passed me, & that's when they told me their names: Lillian & "Beza," which means "Granny." I saw them again at the bar in Ciruena, where I wisely stopped to get something to drink & eat. We chatted a bit, & then I took off.

Along the way through "rolling hills" (more like mini-mountains to me), I came across two BGT2s. The BGT2s were walking together & snorted at Lillian, Beza, & I (yes they caught up with me; turtles could pass me & I'd be hard-pressed to beat molasses on Christmas morning) while we had some water & chatted.

Lillian & Beza are from Norway. Lillian is Beza's granddaughter & Beza told me her name means "Granny." Beza told me she was 78 & is walking the Camino to show the young guys that the old ladies still have it. This is when the BGT2s chose to walk by & snort. Fools. They obviously don't know any old ladies, at least feisty ones like Beza.

It wasn't long before Lillian & Beza got ahead of me, but I didn't mind. I thought I'd see them at the albergue & talk with them some more. As we walked up & down & up & down (God, those hills never ended!), I noticed the BGT2s were walking slower & slower. Heh heh. That's when Beza put it into "granny gear" & hot-footed it up the highest hill, passing the BGT2s as if they were standing still. When she got to the top, she raised her arms in victory, a la "Rocky." I cheered & then began my own long, slow climb to the top of that damn hill.

I too passed the BGT2s & they looked shocked & chagrined that they had been beaten up that hill by an old lady. Good. Maybe she turned them into the other type of Camino Buff Guy.

I hope & pray that when I'm 78, I'm as spirited & feisty as Beza!

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