tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74016379148905125282024-03-19T10:55:08.962-07:00Kelly on the Camino FrancesIn which I relate all the adventures I encounter as I walk the Camino Frances from St. Jean Pied du Port to Burgos, and eventually to Santiago de Compostela.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.comBlogger46125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-68186258578136549382009-07-31T06:03:00.000-07:002009-07-31T06:04:33.227-07:00NEW BLOGhttp://750pints.blogspot.com/<br /><br />Here's my new blog specifically for my upcoming camino. Please follow me (temporarily) over there.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-8678542240686320662009-05-11T10:51:00.000-07:002009-05-11T10:55:59.143-07:00It's the middle of May & I'm still without a passportJust one of the things that needs to get done asap if I plan to leave at the end of August. Wow, that's really coming up fast, isn't it? My plan is to fly into San Sebastian & take the bus or train over to Biarritz, then the train to SJP. I know most people go through Pamplona, but you have to take a bus or taxi to Roncesvalles & then another taxi to SJP. Plus the fare to San Sebastian from Madrid is less than that to Pamplona. Weird. I've revised my itinerary several times already, so who knows where I'm going to end up each night? Certainly not me! I'd like to stay in different places than I've stayed at before, though, so I might end up in places like Obanos & Lorca, as opposed to Puente La Reina & Estella. Once past Leon, however, all bets are off as I haven't covered that area yet.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-56282708948072025672009-03-28T19:46:00.000-07:002009-03-28T19:51:42.647-07:00A Brief UpdateI'm still planning to go to the Camino in September, but it might be pushed back to March 2010, during the Holy Year. If that happens, I'll deal with it. lol! Anyway, I'm back to walking almost every morning & today I completed a 5K walk. Doesn't seem like a whole lot, but considering I could barely walk a mile in October, it's quite an accomplishment.<br /><br />I've got new boots & a new back pack (Osprey something or another). I might be having a friend join me for part of the trip. Who knows? I do know that at least 4 people have told me that they donated blood for this cause, so I need to figure out how to update my counter. Ah well.<br /><br />And yes, I changed the template because the pink was getting to be too much for me. <br /><br />Buen Camino!DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-21719307917226770562009-01-03T19:20:00.000-08:002009-01-03T19:27:27.318-08:00Happy New Year!!Well, 2008 has come & gone. It was a momentous year all around for me (could you tell?), but now it's time to get serious about my upcoming Camino. Starting Monday, I'm hitting the streets again, building up my stamina & (hopefully) losing some weight while I'm at it. I'll need to order the new CSJ guide & as well as look into getting a new pack. And socks. Oh, and boots too. I like the New Balance ones I used before, but they're a little worn down now & the last thing I want to have happen is for my boots to die while I'm in the middle of the Camino. <br /><br />For the Camino newbies browsing my blog, I walked parts of the Camino in 2007, in May & in September. If you're looking for info on the albergues, start looking in September-December 2007. The info might be a bit out of date now, but I did try to include a photo of the sleeping arrangements & comments on the state of the bathrooms, which IMO are the most important considerations.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-37289185556732951362008-11-06T18:22:00.000-08:002008-11-08T15:19:02.901-08:00And a new era in US History begins<a href="http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/?action=view¤t=qrduro.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/qrduro.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/?action=view¤t=wpnan081104.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/wpnan081104.gif" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><br /><br /><br />Us after President Obama's speech:<br /><a href="http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/?action=view¤t=IM000482.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/IM000482.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><br /><br />Dancin' in the Streets! Proud to be Americans again!<br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9v4qq8w9Usw&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9v4qq8w9Usw&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-39181105134174485692008-11-04T09:39:00.000-08:002008-11-04T09:43:23.250-08:00ELECTION DAY!!Les Misbarack!<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/W3ijYVyhnn0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/W3ijYVyhnn0&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-61992052714564929952008-10-23T13:58:00.000-07:002008-10-23T14:26:38.383-07:00YES WE CAN!!Things are getting crazy over here! Here are several videos of how folks are doing their part to get out the vote for OBAMA!!!<br /><br />From Cajun Louisiana: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FLvgwHGlpdQ&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FLvgwHGlpdQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />From Seattle, Washington: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LQ0abgolKgU&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LQ0abgolKgU&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />From Texas: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0fd-MVU4vtU&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0fd-MVU4vtU&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-448262369565938992008-08-21T23:29:00.000-07:002008-08-21T23:59:55.536-07:00Major news & new plan for my CaminoFor the past few weeks, I have been in the hospital battling hemilitic anemia. The doctors tried to control it by medication, but in the end, it turned out that my spleen was the culprit & had to be removed. Damned French ancestry! (just kidding, mes amies!) At one point, my hemoglobin count was down around 4.8. It was a miracle I could even walk at that point. I was finally released from the hospital this past Monday & slowly but surely getting my life back together again. It's a slow process, my docs say, & one cautioned it may be a year before I'm ready to walk the Camino. That's okay, because it's going to take a year to accumulate the amount of leave that I'm going to need to do it! <br /><br />Were it not for about 14, maybe 15, anonymous people who donated the blood used for all the transfusions I got, I would not be here. What got me through were all the prayers & kind thoughts my friends & family & many others made for me during this time. And of course, my doctors & nurses. I don't want to leave them out because they had a heck of a time with me. I tried to be a good patient, but there were a couple of days that just wasn't possible (like right after surgery). <br /><br />During all of this, I prayed constantly, asking to be healed so I could finish my Camino. This prayer evolved into a desire to walk the Camino again, this time from Roncesvalles, and attempt to raise one donation of blood for every kilometer I walk. This would be 749 pints, based on KMs given in the CSJ Guide. While it would be nice for all these donations to come from where I live, I know that would be impossible, so I've set no limits on where the donations come from. If you choose to participate, simply go to your local blood donation organization & donate blood, then let me know by posting on the blog. This will be on the honor system, as I will have no way of knowing if you actually did donate blood, but God will know & that's enough for me.<br /><br />So, hopefully by next September, I'll have enough leave time saved up. And since I always start out with a plan of where I'll walk to each day, here's what I've come up with so far (and as we have seen, this is also subject to change, since I can never seem to stick with a plan once I've got it down):<br /><br />Roncesvalles (because I'd like to start off with the Pilgrim Mass again)<br />Zubiri 22K<br />Cizur Menor 25K<br />Puente La Reina 19K <br />Ayegui 24K<br />Los Arcos 19K <br />Viana 19K<br />Navarette 22K<br />Azofra 22K<br />Granon 21K (play Quasimodo in the bell tower)<br />Belorado 15K (might possibly move on to Tosantos because 15K is too short)<br />Ages 28K (but maybe Atapuerca if I stay in Tosantos)<br />Burgos 23K (maybe Tarjados so I can stay in Hontanas)<br />San Bol 24K (because Sil likes it)<br />San Nicolas 25K (but if not open, Itero, 1K further on)<br />Carrion 35K (!!! But last time, I walked 6k from Boadilla to Fromista<br /> in about an hour; it's all flat so this is possible)<br />Terradillos 26K (maybe press on to Moratinos?)<br />Bercianos 23K<br />Pte Villarente 23K<br />Mazarife 25K <br />Astorga 33K !!!!, but should be up to it by this point<br />Rabanal 22K Minkey, will you be there? :)<br />Molinaseca 26K<br />Villafranca 30K <br />La Faba 25K Oh I might decide to go all in & get to O'Cebreiro in one day.<br />Triacastela 26K<br />Barbadelo 22K (kms are off here, because this will be via Samos, so maybe 25K)<br />Ventas de Naron 31K<br />Ponte Campana 16K<br />Ribadiso 23K<br />Sta Irene 21K<br />Santiago!!!! 24K<br /><br />If I need a rest day, I can take the bus to Burgos from Belorado. While I liked walking that area the last time, I won't miss it if I have to take a rest. At least I will keep moving forward.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-45590924487050683992008-07-14T17:28:00.000-07:002008-07-14T17:39:58.094-07:00If I could only make up my mindI've been planning my 3rd trip back to the Camino. Sounds easy, right? Just pick up where you left off the last time. Weeeelllll, not so much. So far, I've toyed with starting in Sarria, Pamplona, Leon (logical choice), and Burgos. Why? My best guess is that I have a Gemini moon (according to some New Age friend) & therefore have a hard time making a decision.<br /><br />I'm seriously considering starting in Burgos so I can get some mileage under my belt before heading up into the mountains again. Besides, I want to see the meseta that I wasn't able to see because my sinuses decided to act up in Sahagun last year, making me take a train to Leon. Since I've already done the touristy stuff in those towns, I feel that I can breeze through & head for little towns a few kilometers away so I can stay at different albergues than I did before. San Bol, perhaps? Hontanas? I doubt, however, I'll be able to bypass the excellent private albergue in Boadilla, unless I'm there before noon. No sense in burning 6 hours of daylight just to dip my feet in the pool or sleep in the hayloft. If I get there anytime afterwards, however, I shall be sorely tempted to stop.<br /><br />So, now I'm back to curling up with my guidebooks & spiral notebook, planning out my stages (like that's been successful for me!), and checking out airfares--looks like I'll be burning frequent flyer miles this go-round. As for the time, I'd love to go in the fall, but it's an election year in the US. I suppose I could try late April-early May again & pray that it doesn't rain. Hope springs eternal!<br /><br />And seriously, folks, please check out Gareth's blog & donate to his chosen charity. He's almost to Santiago, but less than 1/2 of the way to his goal. :( Help the children & toss in a quid or two (or five thousand).DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-76603376160600352092008-06-16T07:21:00.000-07:002008-06-16T08:13:05.666-07:00Camino Dreamin'<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3n7Vg-HVyBLUo6E6_Dxumvd4keB8rM3_ViXyjP_5I_34UcAZj9dc8QTWX0lRxBchQxtlbhlSdXnbqH84tjLENFg-Y-uZpNKmqWKiUIuN_cjqgdm2u3wU5Bt9KEW3pFB9gHypnWYbTMlw/s1600-h/100_0405.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3n7Vg-HVyBLUo6E6_Dxumvd4keB8rM3_ViXyjP_5I_34UcAZj9dc8QTWX0lRxBchQxtlbhlSdXnbqH84tjLENFg-Y-uZpNKmqWKiUIuN_cjqgdm2u3wU5Bt9KEW3pFB9gHypnWYbTMlw/s320/100_0405.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212497008181669794" /></a><br />Well, here I sit, one year after starting the Camino & I'm still not done! I'm reading Camino blogs with envy, wishing I was back on the road, walking walking walking at my slow pace 20K to the next town. I've been involved in a very hectic case for a few months now, but hopefully, things will settle down enough to let me go back & finish the route in late September or early October. <br /><br />One Camino blog that I read every day (or at least every time he posts) is this one:<br /> http://whizz-kidz-pilgrim.blogspot.com/ <br /><br />Gareth Thomas is walking from Winchester Cathedral to Santiago, & attempting to raise £10,000 for the Whizz Kidz Charity. Please read his blog & contribute what you can.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-67815787036309495782008-02-19T16:20:00.000-08:002008-02-19T16:31:06.343-08:00I'm taking a time out for the primary seasonI am putting my plans on hold so I can do as much as I can to make sure this guy gets elected the next President of the United States:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGGIHqIoP2k"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGGIHqIoP2k" border="0" alt="" /></a>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-48986248709630201842008-01-31T14:05:00.000-08:002008-01-31T14:13:01.832-08:00I'm still here!I'm in the planning stages for my next trip to the Camino Frances. Because this is an election year in the US, I will probably have to go in May. The presidential campaigns will kick into full gear in September (when I had planned to go) & won't be over until November (too cold). While I am dedicated to completing the Camino, I am also dedicated to returning my country to sanity & electing a Democratic President, Senate, & House of Representatives! /political mode off<br /><br />I had originally decided to skip ahead to Sarria & knock off the last 100k, but that never sat right with me. So I sat down with a calendar & a map last night & figured that if I could go at least 25k/day, I could walk Leon-Santiago in 13 days. (Where, oh where, have we heard that before?) Now all I need to do is stop getting sick, get off my hind end & start walking.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-30745452265971030912007-12-09T14:47:00.000-08:002007-12-09T14:58:39.029-08:00Walking in my sleepWhen I returned home in May from my first walk along the Camino, I had a series of unsettling experiences. Each night in my dreams, I re-lived walking and sleeping each step of the Camino. On my first night home, I was walking from St. Jean to Valcarlos. Second night home, Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. Since my usual sleep pattern has be waking up at least once between 2 & 3 a.m., I would wake up disoriented. The dreams were so real, I woke up with the expectation to be in whatever albergue or hotel I had stayed in that particular day. Most nights, I would wake up & take maybe a few seconds to realize that I was home. One night, however, I was so disoriented, that it wasn't until I got out of bed & turned on the light that I realized I was home. It was very scary waking up, wondering where my friends were & not remembering this "albergue" at all. This time, the disorientation stayed with me for a long time, throughout the day, even though I was able to fall back asleep with the cats piled on top of me. It is interesting to note that the day I reliving in my dreams was the day we climbed the Alto del Perdon & ended up in separate albergues in Puente la Reina.<br /><br />For whatever reason, I did not experience this sensation when I came home from the Camino in September. I did have very spectacular, vivid dreams each night & still frequently have them now that I am home. Weird.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-11131677060485647412007-11-29T15:21:00.000-08:002007-11-29T15:51:44.636-08:00There's a Dance in the Old Dame Yet: Lillian & "Beza"Before I tell this story, I want to tell you about the 2 types of young, buff men you see walking the Camino. Most of them would make their mothers proud: they are polite, almost to a fault, and always willing to help out pilgrims who need it or are struggling. I even saw one offer to carry the pack of a Polish woman who had sprained her ankle (in addition to his own pack!). I like these guys. <br /><br />The other type of young, buff men I don't much care for. They walk the Camino with the attitude that if you aren't young, buff, pretty, carrying 35 lbs & walking 50km/day, you aren't worth the breath it takes to say "Buen Camino." They walk as though they own the path & if you are in their way, they brush right by you & roll their eyes at the thought that someone so old, so unattractive (to them), so out of shape, would dare walk "their" Camino. This is "Buff Guy Type 2" or "BGT2."<br /><br />With this information in mind, here is my story of Lillian & "Beza."<br /><br />I never got a chance to get a picture of these two women. I saw them first in Azofra, and then many times the next day on our walk to Santo Domingo. I first came across them resting next to a huge hay stack. They said it was quite comfortable, but I wasn't so sure that I could make it back up if I sat on the ground with them. Of course, they passed me, & that's when they told me their names: Lillian & "Beza," which means "Granny." I saw them again at the bar in Ciruena, where I wisely stopped to get something to drink & eat. We chatted a bit, & then I took off.<br /><br />Along the way through "rolling hills" (more like mini-mountains to me), I came across two BGT2s. The BGT2s were walking together & snorted at Lillian, Beza, & I (yes they caught up with me; turtles could pass me & I'd be hard-pressed to beat molasses on Christmas morning) while we had some water & chatted. <br /><br />Lillian & Beza are from Norway. Lillian is Beza's granddaughter & Beza told me her name means "Granny." Beza told me she was 78 & is walking the Camino to show the young guys that the old ladies still have it. This is when the BGT2s chose to walk by & snort. Fools. They obviously don't know any old ladies, at least feisty ones like Beza.<br /><br />It wasn't long before Lillian & Beza got ahead of me, but I didn't mind. I thought I'd see them at the albergue & talk with them some more. As we walked up & down & up & down (God, those hills never ended!), I noticed the BGT2s were walking slower & slower. Heh heh. That's when Beza put it into "granny gear" & hot-footed it up the highest hill, passing the BGT2s as if they were standing still. When she got to the top, she raised her arms in victory, a la "Rocky." I cheered & then began my own long, slow climb to the top of that damn hill.<br /><br />I too passed the BGT2s & they looked shocked & chagrined that they had been beaten up that hill by an old lady. Good. Maybe she turned them into the other type of Camino Buff Guy.<br /><br />I hope & pray that when I'm 78, I'm as spirited & feisty as Beza!DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-24991261385332022692007-11-18T15:49:00.000-08:002007-11-18T15:58:58.353-08:00Finally got my pictures organizedIt took some doing, thanks to my computer repeatedly freezing up at the wrong time. I hope you enjoy the show!<br /><br /><object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kqfAtN05P44&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kqfAtN05P44&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-89397114679648974972007-11-15T17:06:00.000-08:002007-11-15T17:13:27.352-08:00Pilgrims on horseback<a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0393.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0393.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />Whenever you watch a John Wayne movie, one thing you can always count on is that sometime during the film, he'll call someone "Pilgrim." I had often heard & read about pilgrims on horseback, but never saw one. I did, however, see lots of horseshoe tracks once I started in Logrono. <br /><br />It wasn't until San Juan de Ortega that I actually got to see pilgrims on horseback. There were about 5 of them, on beautiful horses. The youngest one told me that they lived in Logrono & were going all the way to Santiago on horseback. On the day that I saw them, they were headed towards Burgos. <br /><br />I took a few pictures & grabbed a shot of one of the pilgrims on horseback sneaking a cig. The way he was standing & what he was wearing reminded me of John Wayne & the Marlboro Man, Camino-style.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-83378457739622689222007-11-13T14:25:00.000-08:002007-11-14T15:24:28.562-08:00Last but not least-Castrojeriz to Leon (sort of)Sorry it's been a while since I blogged, but this thing called "Life" got in my way. I was not able to walk the entire distance because I got sick in Sahagun & decided to take the train to Leon & spend the remainder of my Camino there. It wasn't too bad, but now I'm home & missing the Camino, I wonder. But before I had to get on the train, here's where I stayed:<br /><br /><strong>Castrojeriz:</strong> What a long walk this was! The maps all make it look like Castrojeriz is just the easiest town to wander around in. Let me clue you in to something that most of us don't discover until it's too late: the guidebooks lie. Of course, it could have been because the town is tearing up all its streets at the same time & I'm sure they'll be lovely once done, but it does make Castrojeriz a bit of a chore to find anything in. <br /><br />I stayed at the private albergue, Casa Nostra. The owner/hospitalero is doing all the renovations himself & so far, he's done a fantastic job. This albergue is going to be spectacular once he is done. Fortunately for me, he did have room in a small room upstairs that he hasn't converted yet. It did have a bed & 2 mattresses. I assured him that I didn't mind that room at all, even when he told me that he might have to put more people in there. It didn't matter. I ended up with a roomie from Maine, who had written 2 songs about the Camino that were just lovely. More about her in another post. Anyway, since last season, he has added toilets upstairs. He has also put in another shower, but when I was there, he hadn't finished it. However, it should be ready for next season. The restaurant just down the street was excellent & one of the owner's dogs is a famous "perro-grino." He followed us up the hill the next day, stayed to greet the people behind us, & then went home.<br /><br /><strong>Hospital de San Nicolas:</strong> I didn't stay here, but I stopped in to get a sello. The albergue doesn't look like it could hold many people, but it was clean. The hospitalero was busy mopping when we arrived. He offered us coffee, cookies, & sellos, in exchange for a donation. What is really cool about San Nicolas is that there is no electricity, so if you really really want a medieval experience, this is your place.<br /><br /><strong>Boadilla del Camino:</strong> I stayed at the private albergue "En el Camino," and after walking in the heat, dust, & God knows what kicked up by all the harvesters, I was really looking forward to it. The outside of the place, however, makes it look like a questionable concern, but once through the gate, OMG, I was in heaven. Instead of making me stand in a line, I was guided to the bunk rooms & told to take a shower, rest, then pay. We had dinner that night at the albergue & it was wonderful. The showers & bathrooms were spotless. This place has a swimming pool & although it was a bit too cold to swim, we stuck our feet in it. Yum! <br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0472.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0472.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />The next day, we all walked to Fromista & made it in 1 hour. I was worried that I wouldn't be able to make it to Leon in the time I had left, so I planned to take the train from there to Sahagun. Mes Amies also had differing plans. Denise & Lucie were going to take the bus or train onward from the town after Fromista, & Josette still had enough time to make Santiago, so she was going to walk. We said good-bye in Fromista, many tears being shed. In typical Irish manner, I didn't watch them leave, because if you do that, you will never see those people again. I found out that I had to go to Palencia to get to Sahagun & ended up spending the night in a hotel there.<br /><br /><strong>Sahagun:</strong> I got to Sahagun early in the afternoon. There was some sort of Spanish Hell's Angels convention going on, so I'm glad I stayed in Palencia. I made it to the municipal albergue which is in the turismo office. I liked the beds. The bathrooms, while okay, were in the same room as the beds & that area did not have its own ceiling, so using the restroom at night was, well, "interesting," since you couldn't turn the lights on without disturbing anyone. It was here that I started having problems with congestion & a runny nose. The pharmacy did not have anything with pseudophedrine in it, so I was screwed. I didn't get a good night's rest, either, since I was having to blow my nose every 5 seconds. I'm sure everyone around me loved that. But my walk through the farmland was catching up with me. Since I was leaving that week for the US, I knew I had to get somewhere to get the right medicine to clear my sinuses & Eustachian tubes, or that flight would be a miserable one. I cried once I decided to end my Camino there & take the train instead of soldiering on, but in the end, it probably was the wisest choice. I gave my walking stick to Rachel from Kentucky, since she only had one & you really need two. She didn't want to take it, but I told her that I was going to leave it behind anyway & I'd rather leave it with someone I knew really needed it.<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0495.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0495.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Leon:</strong> Once again, I was bunking with nuns. However, this time, they separated the men from the women (although if you were travelling in a group & looked like you were married, you could stay together). After weeks of sharing bathrooms with men, this place was absolute heaven! We actually had toilet paper in the morning! And the toilet area didn't smell like piss, either. (A word to the guys: You should aim for the toilet, not the floors or the walls.) I scored a nice lower bunk & took what had to be one of the longest siestas I've ever had. I found a pharmacy that gave me stuff with pseudophedrine in it & could feel it working immediately. This was a very welcoming albergue & it was all for a donativo!DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-38545113309097441482007-10-15T17:20:00.000-07:002007-11-14T15:20:45.794-08:00Another day, another 3 alberguesHere's my take on the albergues in Atapuerca, Burgos, & Hornillos (with a dash of San Juan de Ortega and how to use the bus thrown in for good measure):<br /><br /><strong>San Juan de Ortega:</strong> No, I did not stay here (having read the guide books), but I did speak to 3 people who did. One insisted the albergue has hot water, the others said it did not. Two of them did not take a shower there because of the state of the bathrooms. All of them liked the pilgrim service & the garlic soup. All of them also agreed that the bathrooms were very dirty. This is a damn shame in my book because the church there is one of the most special, most holy-feeling, churches I poked around in. <br /><br /><strong>Atapuerca:</strong>I had been worried about my knees, so I was not looking forward to the "steep climb" out of Villafranca. They are not kidding about that, BUT it's not as long as I had thought it would be. Word of caution: Make sure you have your own water. The sign at Fuente Mojopan is an "Agua Non Potable" sign, but the "Non" part has been painted over. Sort of. If you want to take your chances, feel free, but I'm not willing to gamble on something like that. There also is no descent to Valdefuentes, as the Camino has been restructured, widened, and levelled out. I made San Juan de Ortega by 11!!! But, you have been warned. Fill up in Villafranca.<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0407.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0407.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />We stayed at the private Albergue de Peregrinos on the main road in Atapuerca. Very nice, clean, smallish kitchen, but we only threw breakfast together there. The rooms have 2 beds & two bunk beds in them. Each bed has a small shelf for your personal night time items, and a footlocker for your pack. IIRC, there is also a plug so you can recharge your phone/iPod/electrical entertainment device of your choice while you sleep. The internet connection is in the Information Center of the Archaeological Center just down the road. It's free, but there's only one terminal, so if someone's already on there blogging away, you have to sit & wait your turn. Which isn't bad, since you can watch the film of the exacavations underway in Atapuerca & learn something. Evidence suggests that this area has been inhabited by humans &/or humanoids for almost 1 million years. This albergue also posts information on which bus to take into Burgos.<br /><br /><strong>Burgos (at last):</strong>I was only a few months' late getting to Burgos (my first stab at the Camino was to end here instead of Logrono). This was also the only day the heavens opened up & it rained like cats & dogs (with nasty-sounding thunder & lightning thrown in for good measure). After waiting out the storm in a small bar, we headed towards Villafria. Note: The guidebooks mention a plethora of routes--this has been changed. The only alternate route we saw was the turn off after crossing the highway just before Villafria. <br /><br />Instructions for taking the bus into Burgos: The route you are looking for is route 8. It stops in front of the Buenos Aires hotel/restaurant every hour on the hour between the hours of 10 a.m. & 2 p.m. (times according to the albergue in Atapuerca; we hopped on the noon bus, so I can't vouch for the other times). Cost is 75 cents (Euro) & well worth it. This route ends near the statue of El Cid, close to the Cathedral.<br /><br />None of us stayed at the main albergue in Burgos. The first night, I stayed at Hotel Espana for 35 Euro/night. Nice place, but I checked out the next day with the intention of going to the main albergue in the park. My friends stayed at the small albergue near the cathedral. They saw people being turned away because they were not walking the next day. (Hello, most pilgrims take a rest day in Burgos!) They were not allowed to do laundry because it had been raining. It was also crowded, but for a donativo, who's going to complain?<br /><br />The next day, I checked out of the hotel & headed towards the Cathedral plaza. I met up with 2 German pilgrims & somehow in German, French, Spanish AND English, I gathered that the main albergue was "very bad, don't go there." I somehow a referral for a good pensione for the Germans, since they didn't want to stay at a hotel. It's amazing what information you can get using 4 languages (including 2 that no one is fluent in), maps, & charades. So there I was in the middle of Burgos with no place to rest my weary head for that night. I took a look around & decided to take a chance on Meson del Cid. It is a 4 star, so I was sure it was too pricey, but I was also armed with my American Express card. Yes, they took Amex & would I like a room for 70 Euro (no meals) or 90 Euro (meals included). For the record, if you are in Burgos on a Tuesday evening, take the 90 Euro offer. Most restaurants were closed Tuesday evening, so I would have saved a bunch if I had been smart enough to follow my instincts. After all the albergues & the 2 star hotels, this place was Paradise! A nice big bed all to my lonesome, TV with CNN International (although the only story of import was OJ's recent arrest, so I'm not sure if this was a great deal or not), and a big bathroom. Later that day (after discovering that most restaurants were closed), I ran into Mes Amies again, & as luck would have it, they were also staying at the same hotel!!!! We ended up walking together all the way to Fromista. We had dinner that night in the hotel's restaurant. Expensive, but OMG, it was worth it!<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0438.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0438.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />We took the bus out of Burgos as well, but since I was following Mes Amies (they had the instructions), I can only suggest that you inquire at the Information office near the Cathedral.<br /><br />Hornillos del Camino: We almost didn't get beds here, but got the last ones, including 2 lower bunks. The bathrooms were clean, as were the dorms. The kitchen was also clean. The only downside was the very small laundry area. Only one small sink, so the line for laundry was longer than the line for the shower.<br /><br />There is a store here & it is open during siesta & until 8pm. I'm not sure if it's open all year. It is fairly well stocked for a town of this size (less than 100 people) & has bathrooms. It is owned (I think) by the same people who own the bar/restaurant in front of the albergue. Word of caution: while it is great that they start serving dinner so early (6:00), you have to go put your name on a list. There are only 5 tables & we had to wait almost 2 hours. Nice upshot to that was since they are also the hospitaleros, the bar owners don't close up the albergue until everyone has had dinner. There is a hotel of sorts in town as well, but Hornillos fills up quickly.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-65375887173847510532007-10-14T18:24:00.000-07:002007-11-13T14:24:54.987-08:00Albergues at Santo Domingo, Villamayor, & VillafrancaThe next three nights, I stayed at the following albergues. <br /><br /><strong>Santo Domingo de la Calzada--</strong>I stayed at the convent, which is the first albergue as you walk into town, although there is a newer, municipal one a few blocks further down the Camino. It was just one of those days when I couldn't make myself walk the extra yards to get there. They only ask for donativos, & some people didn't leave anything, although the donation box was right under their nose. The bathrooms & dorms were unisex, but the mattress on my bunk (I got a lower one this time!) was one of the best. The showers are a bit crowded & there's really no area to change in the shower & keep your clothes dry. However, the water pressure was quite good, so I washed out my dirty, sweaty clothes in it after finishing the shower. Just across the street from the new albergue is a coin-operated laundry with 2 washers & dryers. Soap is automatically added in the washer, so you don't have to bring or buy your own. At the convent, there is a nice sized dining/common area & kitchen facilities, and an open patio/garden area behind it. Very peaceful. The only downside to this albergue is the shower situation. <br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0356.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0356.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Villamayor del Rio--</strong>Most people wander past this albergue on their way to Belorado. It is off the main Camino, but you can see it from the highway. I wanted to stay in Viloria del Rio, but hadn't walked enough kms that day. I did stop by & got a bit of a rest. It looks like a good place to stop.<br /><br />Back to Villamayor, it is a private network albergue run by a family. The rooms are big, with 3 to 4 bunks in each one. Some upper bunks have boards instead of mattresses, so you can leave your packs on them instead of the floor. The bathrooms were large for an albergue. The women's had 3 toilets & three showers, & each shower had a changing area. The best part of this albergue is the owner's garden in the back. They have tilled quite a large area, & planted flowers and all kinds of vegetables in it. They use the produce in the evening meal. That night we had leek soup (pureed), and stewed beef with the best boiled potatoes I've ever had in my life. When we checked in & asked about dinner, the hospitalero said we didn't have to pay if we didn't like it. Since everyone raved, everyone paid.<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0367.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0367.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Villafranca Montes de Oca-- </strong> The municipal albergue here keeps the door open all day & the hospitaleros come later to sign everyone in. We went in & secured bunks in the room at the back of the albergue. The town is split in half by the highway, so the back room is quieter. The albergue quickly filled up in the afternoon, as the hostal El Pajaro was closed for vacations. One room on the lower level was filled with mattresses, & some mattresses were placed in our room as well, after the dining table was removed. There is a nice open area in the back overlooking the mountains, but it is all cement; no plants or gardens. There is only one toilet for women, but 2 for men & several unisex showers. The kitchen area is a bit limited, but we were able to make a decent dinner for that night, as well as breakfast the next morning.<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0381.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0381.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-18898595021542123512007-10-06T18:12:00.000-07:002007-11-13T14:19:05.292-08:00Logrono to Azofra: AlberguesA friend commented "Why aren't you updating your blog?" Answer: It was becoming "I came, I saw, I slept." Lather, rinse, repeat. Boring to write, boring to read. So somewhere along the way, I decided I'd blog about the people I met, things that really interested me, thoughts that crossed my mind instead. For my first post, however, I want to run through the albergues I stayed at. Yes, there are guidebooks & such that tell you where they are & what sort of condition they are (or rather were) in last year, but there's no substitute for reading someone's personal experience (hence the need for a site such as TripAdvisor--don't book a hotel room without it). With the caveat that you will be reading my personal opinions (and somethings that bother me might not bother you), here we go.<br /><br /><strong>Logrono:</strong> Although I arrived mid-afternoon, the main albergue was already full. The hospitalera sent me on my way to the church down the street to stay at the albergue there. When I arrived, they were already out of beds (it didn't appear that they had that many anyway), so she took me & another girl upstairs to the parish hall. They had some "mattresses" (more like gym mats, very thin) which we could sleep on, so we set up our mattresses on one side of the hall & left our packs on the other. Soon, a school group arrived seeking lodging & when the instructor said she needed 19 places, I thought the hospitalera would faint. It was a tight squeeze, but we all fit. Eventually. There was no set price, even though dinner was included. All donativo & helping out with dinner (ie, washing the dishes & putting them away). After the pilgrim mass, we had dinner & the priest showed up! He was very nice, wanted to make sure everyone was accomodated & satisfied. He then told us about the special pilgrim service they have each night after dinner. We had to "sneak" back into the church via a secret tunnel, and went into the chapel at the rear of the church. There we conducted the pilgrim service in French, Spanish, German, & English. Afterwards, the priest stamped our credentials & spoke with each of us personally. He got a big kick out of the fact that I was from Laredo; there is also a Laredo, Spain, so he joked that I hadn't come far enough to stay there that night. <br /><br />The only downside, to me, about this albergue is that there is only one toilet & shower for men & one for women. The mattresses also are very thin, so it was very uncomfortable to sleep on the floor. But the hospitaleras, the priest, the fantastic meal & the overall welcoming feeling we received far outweigh those issues for me.<br /><br /><strong>Ventosa:</strong>I arrived in Ventosa only to find the street leading to the San Saturnino albergue completely torn up. It's probably paved back over by now, so no worries, but it wasn't a happy thing to see after trudging 20 kms. I was lucky, though. There were only a few backpacks beside the door when I arrived. <br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0328.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0328.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />The hospitalera opened the albergue early that day, & I luckily received the last upper bunk in the first room. The albergue quickly filled up that day, and in the morning, there were people in the kitchen & the salon on the ground floor. I can't remember how the mattress was, but after spending a night on the floor, my body was happy for it. The bathrooms were clean, as was the kitchen. The hospitalera woke us up at 6:20 a.m. by playing Pachelbel's Canon. A very nice way to wake up!<br /><br /><strong>Azofra:</strong>The town has built their own albergue just off the main Camino. It has a footbath (heaven), a huge dining/common room area, nice sized kitchen & also a patio area. You sleep in beds (not bunks), 2 people per room. The bathrooms are unisex, but since there is room to change in the shower stall, that's not a problem. Each person also has a "closet" to place their packs in, which is nicer than having to leave them on the floor. There is a washing machine, 3 euro, which includes detergent! There are 2 restaurants in town offering pilgrim menus.<br /><br /><a href="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0351.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/DGinLDO/100_0351.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-58103162254592905882007-09-17T08:26:00.000-07:002007-09-17T08:31:02.798-07:00I came to Spain to practice my FrenchToday I said "good bye" to my Camino friends Josette, Denise, & Lucie. I met them in Ventosa & we have travelled together up to Burgos. Josette is from France. Denise & Lucie are cousins from Quebec. They all speak French & some English, so what little French I know (and it´s not very much) got a real work-out. We left each other at the bus stop in Burgos, near the statue of El Cid. Josette is walking all the way to Santiago, so I will probably see her again, but Denise & Lucie will be cutting across the meseta & picking up the Camino again in Leon. I decided to get a hotel tonight, to have some space to myself, so had to say good bye when they headed to the albergue.<br /><br />If you are reading this, mes amies, I miss you already! Bon Chemin!<br /><br />Oh, and it rained like the blazes today.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-10876362511086893172007-09-12T06:01:00.000-07:002007-09-12T06:06:04.246-07:00Second day on the CaminoI´ve made it to Azofra & am in the fantastic albergue here: 60 places, all in rooms with 2 bed, NOT bunk beds!!! So far, it does not appear that anyone is sleeping on the floor. I got to do that in Logrono, at the church. The overall experience there was nice, but my body let me know quickly it will not tolerate sleeping on the floor again. I heard about it all the way to Ventosa. That albergue opened up early & was full by 1 pm (I scored a top bunk). More & more people kept showing up, so out came the mattresses until there was no room left on the floor. It was nice, however, to wake up to Pachelbel¨s Canon & then walk through vineyards ripe with grapes in the early hours. A very peaceful start to a nice day of walking.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-37838781956601152582007-09-04T19:11:00.001-07:002007-09-04T19:12:59.039-07:00Google Map of the Camino FrancesWith permission, I've added a link to Jerome's Google Map. It's one thing to hear me nattering on about the Camino, but now you can see exactly where in Spain I've been walking. Thanks Jerome!DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-63835911211743121722007-09-02T14:48:00.000-07:002007-09-02T14:59:12.104-07:00One week to go!This time next week, I'll be in Madrid! After getting over jet lag there, I'll be headed to Logrono on the bus, & start walking on Tuesday. <br /><br />My plans are to start at Logrono & end at Leon. I have 16 days to do this & my "schedule" has me arriving in Leon 14 days after I leave Logrono. If I feel like having a rest day or stopping earlier, I will have 2 days built in to my schedule to do that. If I don't use the days, I'll continue on to Astorga.<br /><br />Here's my plan:<br />Day 1 Logrono to Ventosa<br />Day 2 Azofra<br />Day 3 Santo Domingo (got to have time to play with the chickens!)<br />Day 4 Villamayor<br />Day 5 Villafranca<br />Day 6 Atapuerca (or Ages)<br />Day 7 Burgos<br />Day 8 Hontanas<br />Day 9 Fromista<br />Day 10 Carrion de Condes<br />Day 11 Terradillos<br />Day 12 Bercianos<br />Day 13 Mansilla<br />Day 14 Leon<br />Day 15 ?<br />Day 16 ?<br /><br />Where ever I end up, I head back to Madrid, spend the night, then go home. I hope to meet as many nice people on the Camino as I did in May. Okay, now off to pack.DGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7401637914890512528.post-57001734802893689392007-07-16T16:31:00.000-07:002007-07-16T16:33:20.803-07:00I've heard from Felicity!I heard from Felicity last week and she sent me the link to her pictures. They are fantastic and really make me want to get back on the Camino asap. I hope you enjoy looking at her photos as much as I did!<br /><br />http://www.flickr.com/photos/felicitybcDGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04107010714337224660noreply@blogger.com0