Last minute jitters!

This time next week, I will be winging my way towards Paris, France! I have been packing & re-packing my backpack, trying to make it work. It's still coming in at 17 lbs , even though I've tossed out a few things I wanted to bring (mostly things I can purchase in France or Spain, but really, I'd rather save the $ & take & use what I already have).

I finally got frustrated with the two "pockets" that attach to the front straps. Even empty, they make me feel as though I'm being strangled & are really heavy. I decided last night to toss them, but what to use instead? I decided to get a waistpack, which while smaller, will still hold the things I need to keep on hand (like my pilgrim's passport & munchies) AND is much lighter. I also got a cheapo rain poncho which is incredibly much lighter than the one I got earlier. At some point, I will stop spending $$ on this trip. I'll put it all together tonight to see how much my pack comes in at with these subtractions & additions.

Why I can't pack

Heeding the advice of veteran peregrinos, I have been packing & re-packing my back pack, taking things out so that it will be as light as possible. Can I really get by for 2 weeks with only 3 changes of clothes?

As you can tell, Rikki (calico) & Misty are "helping" me by sleeping on my stuff. I have less than 2 weeks to go before my trip. Will they finally wake up & go do something else so I can finish packing?

More thoughts on the first leg

Today,, one of the members of the Santiago Today forum reappeared. He had started his Camino about the time that the British pilgrim got lost & died. According to Santos, he spent 18 hours on the trail, getting to Roncesvalles at midnight! He related that it got cold very quickly, going from rain to blizzard conditions, when there was already a 3-foot accumulation on the ground. The kicker? He took the Valcarlos Route! He barely made it to Roncesvalles & was sent back by taxi to SJPdP the next morning. He could not continue because he had some problems due to the exposure to the cold, but he is at least safe & sound at home now. He had listened to the locals & took the recommended route, as well.

Now I'm budgeting in the cost of a taxi to Roncesvalles. If the weather is still that shaky in 2 weeks, I'll take a cab.

Another change in plans

This week, those of us in the Camino world received the tragic news that a pilgrim from Great Britain died as a result of exposure along the Route Napoleon. He had gotten lost during a snow storm, and while the rescuers found him alive, he later died at the hospital.

It's early April & it's still snowing in the mountains?!? I wonder why this guy was up there; we are told repeatedly to listen to the locals in SJPdP & if they tell you not to take the Route Napoleon--DON'T TAKE IT! Perhaps the weather changed so quickly that even the locals didn't realize?

I've already placed most of my stuff in my pack & wandered around the nearby elementary school with it the past few days (to the looks of amusement & disbelief of other walkers & joggers). Even if I walk 6 miles with the pack every day from now until May 1, I don't think I could handle carrying my "Seattle gear." As a result, I wouldn't have the proper gear to handle such a change in weather. Because of this, I am seriously considering taking the more historical route through the valley via Arneguy & Valcarlos, instead of up & over the Pyrennees as I had originally planned.

I can still take 2 days to get to Roncesvalles, by stopping at Valcarlos, and wouldn't have to climb or descend as high as I would have via the Route Napoleon. The Camino runs along the highway between SJPdP, so it's not as remote.

While I'd miss all the view, as well as staying at the albergue in Orisson, I think it best to play it safe on this first stage. I can always go back & walk the Route Napoleon when the weather is more stable.

For these two feet, much thanks

(Shout out to my friends at the KOEB)

I read somewhere recently that you should start walking 5 kms/day (3 & change miles) to get your feet used to all the walking you will do on the Camino. So, this past Sunday, I made myself get up & walk that distance. There is a school nearby that takes up an entire block, & so one lap around it is 1/2 mile. Yesterday, I added an extra lap, & on Sunday, I'll be up to 4 miles. (I can't get to the paper that has that converted into kms because Misty is sitting on it. Cats.)

My body really protested this course of action for about 3 days, but I've noticed that the complaints are subsiding. Since I plan to add 1/2 mile every 3 days, I should be up to 10 miles/day by the time I leave. And yes, I'll be training with my backpack on too.

Speaking of which, I've decided that since I'm taking a walking stick, I might as well check something. I don't want to have the TSA think I'm a terrorist because I have a collapsable Eddie Bauer walking pole on my person. Of course, now I can also take a Swiss Army knife, shampoo, sunscreen, & insect repellent as well, all in the checked bag. I found a cheap duffel bag to put all this stuff in, which I will either mail to my hotel in Madrid or fold up & carry with me. Yes, I made sure I got a duffle bag that folds up quite nicely.

Speaking of my hotel in Madrid, I got the bright idea to look in my Lonely Planet: Madrid for hotel suggestions. After looking up several hotels, to no avail (either no availability or too expensive), I gave it on last try on the Hotel Ateneo in the Puerto Sol district. When I saw the pictures on the website, I thought "No way is this hotel in my price range." I then pretended to make a reservation & almost fell over: a double room for single use? 85 Euro! Then I knew it was too good to be true, so I looked up the hotel on www.tripadvisor.com . It scores a 4 out of 5! The candid pics look great! So, may I introduce the hotel I will stay at in Madrid:
http://www.hotel-ateneo.com/ Look up the reviews on Trip Advisor as well. (Use this forum for your travel needs; I don't book a hotel without checking here first.)

While I'm in Madrid, I think I'll stop by this place on Saturday: http://www.medinamayrit.com/ Take a nice hot "bath" & get a massage to wind down from the Camino. Mmmmmmm. Yes, I'm spoiled.

My horoscope for today

"You need more physical exercise." LOL! I am not making that up! Since Sunday, I've followed someone's suggestion to walk at least 5km (a bit over 3 miles) a day, increasing each week until shortly before I leave for the Camino. The plan right now is to increase by 1 mile each week before I go, so I will be up to 6 miles a day before I leave. Also at some point, I need to add on my back pack to get used to lugging that around.

I looked at some pictures of the Camino Frances on the Santiago Today forum yesterday and started crying. I don't know why.

My plan for my Camino

I had already developed a planned itenerary for my Camino, when I noticed that I had overlooked two places I wanted to visit. So, Someone is still having fun with my plans, wouldn't you say?

Given that I haven't put in much walking practice as I had initially planned, I've decided to average about 20 kms per day (about 13 miles). Thus, my itenerary looks like this:

May 4: SJPdP to Orisson 8 km; straight uphill
May 5: Orisson to Roncevalles 16 km; uphill, then downhill
May 6: Roncevalles to Zubiri 22 km
May 7: Zubiri to Pamplona 21.9 km
May 8: Pamplona to Eunate 23.9 km
May 9: Eunate to Estella 23.6 km
May 10: Estella to Los Arcos 21.7 km
May 11: Los Arcos to Viana 19.0 km
May 12: Viana to Navarette 22.8 km
May 13: Navarette to Azofra 22.2 km
May 14: Azofra to Granon 22.2 km
May 15: Granon to Tosantos 12.0 km
May 16: Tosantos to Ages 22.3 km
May 17: Ages to Burgos 20 km

Since I don't need to be in Madrid until May 19, I have an extra day in case I want to linger in one place or not go so far on another.

The Mundicamino website has a great graphic breakdown of the Camino Frances, as well as the alburgues along the route: http://www.mundicamino.com/ On this website, the Camino Frances is called "The Way of St. James." Click on the British flag to get the website in English, then on "The Way of St. James." Then, click on the "SJPdP to Roncevalles" button & go from there!