Saturday, October 6, 2007

Logrono to Azofra: Albergues

A friend commented "Why aren't you updating your blog?" Answer: It was becoming "I came, I saw, I slept." Lather, rinse, repeat. Boring to write, boring to read. So somewhere along the way, I decided I'd blog about the people I met, things that really interested me, thoughts that crossed my mind instead. For my first post, however, I want to run through the albergues I stayed at. Yes, there are guidebooks & such that tell you where they are & what sort of condition they are (or rather were) in last year, but there's no substitute for reading someone's personal experience (hence the need for a site such as TripAdvisor--don't book a hotel room without it). With the caveat that you will be reading my personal opinions (and somethings that bother me might not bother you), here we go.

Logrono: Although I arrived mid-afternoon, the main albergue was already full. The hospitalera sent me on my way to the church down the street to stay at the albergue there. When I arrived, they were already out of beds (it didn't appear that they had that many anyway), so she took me & another girl upstairs to the parish hall. They had some "mattresses" (more like gym mats, very thin) which we could sleep on, so we set up our mattresses on one side of the hall & left our packs on the other. Soon, a school group arrived seeking lodging & when the instructor said she needed 19 places, I thought the hospitalera would faint. It was a tight squeeze, but we all fit. Eventually. There was no set price, even though dinner was included. All donativo & helping out with dinner (ie, washing the dishes & putting them away). After the pilgrim mass, we had dinner & the priest showed up! He was very nice, wanted to make sure everyone was accomodated & satisfied. He then told us about the special pilgrim service they have each night after dinner. We had to "sneak" back into the church via a secret tunnel, and went into the chapel at the rear of the church. There we conducted the pilgrim service in French, Spanish, German, & English. Afterwards, the priest stamped our credentials & spoke with each of us personally. He got a big kick out of the fact that I was from Laredo; there is also a Laredo, Spain, so he joked that I hadn't come far enough to stay there that night.

The only downside, to me, about this albergue is that there is only one toilet & shower for men & one for women. The mattresses also are very thin, so it was very uncomfortable to sleep on the floor. But the hospitaleras, the priest, the fantastic meal & the overall welcoming feeling we received far outweigh those issues for me.

Ventosa:I arrived in Ventosa only to find the street leading to the San Saturnino albergue completely torn up. It's probably paved back over by now, so no worries, but it wasn't a happy thing to see after trudging 20 kms. I was lucky, though. There were only a few backpacks beside the door when I arrived.



The hospitalera opened the albergue early that day, & I luckily received the last upper bunk in the first room. The albergue quickly filled up that day, and in the morning, there were people in the kitchen & the salon on the ground floor. I can't remember how the mattress was, but after spending a night on the floor, my body was happy for it. The bathrooms were clean, as was the kitchen. The hospitalera woke us up at 6:20 a.m. by playing Pachelbel's Canon. A very nice way to wake up!

Azofra:The town has built their own albergue just off the main Camino. It has a footbath (heaven), a huge dining/common room area, nice sized kitchen & also a patio area. You sleep in beds (not bunks), 2 people per room. The bathrooms are unisex, but since there is room to change in the shower stall, that's not a problem. Each person also has a "closet" to place their packs in, which is nicer than having to leave them on the floor. There is a washing machine, 3 euro, which includes detergent! There are 2 restaurants in town offering pilgrim menus.

Monday, September 17, 2007

I came to Spain to practice my French

Today I said "good bye" to my Camino friends Josette, Denise, & Lucie. I met them in Ventosa & we have travelled together up to Burgos. Josette is from France. Denise & Lucie are cousins from Quebec. They all speak French & some English, so what little French I know (and it´s not very much) got a real work-out. We left each other at the bus stop in Burgos, near the statue of El Cid. Josette is walking all the way to Santiago, so I will probably see her again, but Denise & Lucie will be cutting across the meseta & picking up the Camino again in Leon. I decided to get a hotel tonight, to have some space to myself, so had to say good bye when they headed to the albergue.

If you are reading this, mes amies, I miss you already! Bon Chemin!

Oh, and it rained like the blazes today.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Second day on the Camino

I´ve made it to Azofra & am in the fantastic albergue here: 60 places, all in rooms with 2 bed, NOT bunk beds!!! So far, it does not appear that anyone is sleeping on the floor. I got to do that in Logrono, at the church. The overall experience there was nice, but my body let me know quickly it will not tolerate sleeping on the floor again. I heard about it all the way to Ventosa. That albergue opened up early & was full by 1 pm (I scored a top bunk). More & more people kept showing up, so out came the mattresses until there was no room left on the floor. It was nice, however, to wake up to Pachelbel¨s Canon & then walk through vineyards ripe with grapes in the early hours. A very peaceful start to a nice day of walking.

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Google Map of the Camino Frances

With permission, I've added a link to Jerome's Google Map. It's one thing to hear me nattering on about the Camino, but now you can see exactly where in Spain I've been walking. Thanks Jerome!

Sunday, September 2, 2007

One week to go!

This time next week, I'll be in Madrid! After getting over jet lag there, I'll be headed to Logrono on the bus, & start walking on Tuesday.

My plans are to start at Logrono & end at Leon. I have 16 days to do this & my "schedule" has me arriving in Leon 14 days after I leave Logrono. If I feel like having a rest day or stopping earlier, I will have 2 days built in to my schedule to do that. If I don't use the days, I'll continue on to Astorga.

Here's my plan:
Day 1 Logrono to Ventosa
Day 2 Azofra
Day 3 Santo Domingo (got to have time to play with the chickens!)
Day 4 Villamayor
Day 5 Villafranca
Day 6 Atapuerca (or Ages)
Day 7 Burgos
Day 8 Hontanas
Day 9 Fromista
Day 10 Carrion de Condes
Day 11 Terradillos
Day 12 Bercianos
Day 13 Mansilla
Day 14 Leon
Day 15 ?
Day 16 ?

Where ever I end up, I head back to Madrid, spend the night, then go home. I hope to meet as many nice people on the Camino as I did in May. Okay, now off to pack.

Monday, July 16, 2007

I've heard from Felicity!

I heard from Felicity last week and she sent me the link to her pictures. They are fantastic and really make me want to get back on the Camino asap. I hope you enjoy looking at her photos as much as I did!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/felicitybc

Friday, July 13, 2007

Some tips & suggestions for the Camino

Feel free to use or disregard as you will.

I. When planning to walk to Camino Frances (or any Camino for that matter), you must get yourself into better shape than you are in right now. This means exercise, preferably walking. Time to start? Now. Start small & work your way up.

Use Google Earth or Map Quest to figure out your routes. Plan out a 5k route (a tad over 3 miles) and start walking. Each week, add another km (or mile). At some point, those of you who work will have to limit weekday walks to 2 hours or less, but you do have the weekends, so schedule longer walks for Saturdays & Sundays (or whatever days you have off from work).

As you get closer to your departure date, start walking with your backpack, especially for the longer walks. This is the very best way to find out that your pack is too heavy. If you wait until you are on the Camino, you will either have to leave things behind or mail them (right, Felicity? SmileyCentral.com )

2. Your pack should weigh no more than 20% of your bodyweight & not more than 20 pounds (9.07kg)! Any more than that & you risk injuring your back, knees, & ankles. I was one of those who didn't really listen to this advice & my first few days on the Camino weren't very pleasant. You don't need to bring your closet! 2 or 3 changes of clothes & that's it! You should include basic toiletries (soap, toothpaste, prescriptions, toothbrush, towel, washcloth), & some items for first aid, especially for blisters. Everything else is a non-essential item & you should take the time to consider whether you really really really need it or not.

3. TAKE A WALKING STICK!!!! Better yet, take TWO. Sticks not only help you keep your balance on slippery slopes, they give your hands something to do so they don't swell up. (Trust me on this one.) I know there are some people out there who scoff at using sticks. That's fine for them as they are part mountain-goat. The rest of us (and this includes you)? Not so much. My walking stick saved me from several falls in the early days when it was rainy & mucky. Later, it helped me over the river of rocks (tm Minkey) that is the downward slope of the Alto del Perdon.

4. DO NOT SKIMP ON SHOES & SOCKS!! While it's fine to hit the thrift stores for most of your items, including your pack & sleeping bag, DO NOT SKIMP $$ ON YOUR SHOES & YOUR SOCKS!! Take the time & the $$ to get the best pair of boots/hiking shoes that you can possibly afford. If you use the wrong shoes, you will be miserable your entire trip. As for hiking & wicking socks, yes they are worth the price you pay at a sporting goods store for them. They work in tandem with your boots to keep your feet happy.

5. The best way to handle blisters is to not get them in the first place. There are many suggestions out there on how to handle/prevent blisters. I am firmly in the "do not puncture" camp. I only had one blister my entire trip (okay, all 11 days of it), & that was due to my boots & socks getting soaked on the way to Roncesvalles. The big toe on my right foot got a hot spot & there was no way or where to stop & do something about it, so I soldiered on. I did not get a blister anywhere else because I used bandage tape on my feet. Someone asked me what I meant by that, so here goes: Whenever I buy a new pair of shoes, I always get blisters. I know where they form on my feet, so I taped up those areas. Guess where I've never gotten a blister before? You guessed it: on my big toes. So, I just put moleskin on my blister & taped up my left big toe along with everything else, & I was just fine. As an aside, moleskin is very difficult to find in Spain, so if you are coming from the US, bring as much of it as you can & use it sparingly. If you leave the Camino early, be a good citizen & pass your unused moleskin along to someone else who needs it.